Things to do in London when you are on vacation and have purchased the perfect pair of comfortable boots to walk around in (you hope)

Now is the time of the impending trip when we realize just how many articles we foolishly signed up to write, to edit, and to assign before we go and we panic a little and start frantically setting up our phone interviews and then we give up and blog instead.

Let’s stop focusing on the wide world of dog news for a moment and focus instead on all the cool stuff Gene and I are hoping to do in London. Please chime in if you have further suggestions.

Stuff:

I’m sure it’s cheesy, but I’d kind of like to visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum. We’re reading Holmes for Finer Things this month, so it’s fresh in my mind.

Last time I really wanted to see the Museum of Childhood, but it was closed. This time we’re going! This is part of the excellent Victoria & Albert Museum and I hope will have miniatures and old toys and stuff.

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We are staying a few minutes from Paddington Station, and we are so going to see the Paddington Bear statue. Finer Things forever!

I’d love to hear evensong at St. Paul’s again.

I am drooling to see some of the collections at the British Library, including the Treasures Gallery and one on evolution.

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We’re staying very near Hyde Park, so we’ll take some walks through that and go look at the Princess Diana fountain again, because it was so neat. I wonder if the water will be frozen?

I cannot wait to take a trip to Warwick Castle. I went here with my folks on a day tour when I was 15 and I loved it; my first castle and it looked exactly like a castle should. Instead of taking a tour this time, we can take the train. Looks like there’s some neat Christmas stuff happening then as well — ice sculptures, giant Christmas tree, etc.

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I hope we’ll also take a trip to Bath. It’s an hour and a half on the train. I went with the girls in ’97 and loved it; all the buildings are gold-yellow stone and it’s so beautiful. I expect to love it more now that I know a bit more about Jane Austen. (Jane Austen actually hated Bath, but she’s associated with it anyway. If I become famous, will I, too, be associated with the hateful places my family dragged me to on vacation? Mostly they dragged me to awesome, fun places. But maybe I’ll become associated with Tacoma or something.)

We’ll visit the Tower of London, and maybe see the crown jewels, because I like shiny things.

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We’ll see the Peter Pan statue again at Kensington Gardens.

We will eat kebab. Every day. All day long. Kebab.

There are some nifty-looking exhibits at the British Museum, including “Clocks and watches,” “The Islamic World,” and “Living and Dying.”

We both love the Natural History Museum in New York, so we’d better check out the one in London.

We might ride the London Eye if we are brave enough and the weather stays dry enough. We could even take a mulled wine flight, if the combination of super high heights and disgusting mulled wine wasn’t likely to make me throw up a little.

I’d really like to see The Thief of Baghdad but I expect I will be doing this on my own. That’s okay though. I’ll go watch pretty dancers and the others can have boy time.

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We might also try ice skating, although we’ll have to plan a lot of non-walking events for the next day, in consideration of my bruises.

And even though zoos hurt my heart, I still love seeing animals, so we might visit the London Zoo.

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The good, the bad, the Bebe

I recently bought a trench coat from Bebe.com. Online it was a gorgeous, pearlescent turquoise, but in person it was a matte green. It looked like the uniform of a policeman in the Emerald City.

I elected to return it to the downtown store rather than paying shipping fees to return it by mail. According to the policy, online orders can be returned to a store within 14 days of receiving the item, and I was well inside my limit.

When I got there, the guy behind the counter said “Well, you’re one day past the return deadline, but I’ll ring you up.”

Why did this bother me? He was letting me return the thing anyway. I guess it was the condescending, “Stupid woman, can’t even read a calendar” implications. So where normally I would have just smiled and thanked him, this time I said, “No, I’m not.”

“Well, you’re supposed to return it within 14 days of it being shipped,” he said.

“Nope,” I said, “your policy on the website and the receipt says within 14 days of receiving the item. That’s why I printed my UPS confirmation for you, see? I got it three days ago.”

“Well, who knows,” he said. Then he refunded my shipping fees, which he didn’t have to do, though whether this was accidental or motivated by fear I could not say.

But I got home and re-checked that policy. Receipt of the item, jerkface, like I said. And I’ll tell you what else: you’ve got a special holiday policy where any item ordered after November 1 doesn’t have to be returned until January 8, so suck on that.

Honestly, I usually have all kinds of compassion for people in retail. Anyone being rude or incompetent has usually just had a really long day, and a little kindness from a customer can quickly turn them around. But this guy didn’t seem tired or unhappy, he just seemed smug.

Or possibly I am just giving up some of my compassion, because part of being in my thirties (I’ve decided) is going to be standing up for myself, whether it’s arguing a return policy, taking up my allotted amount of space on the subway (instead of cringing away from whatever oblivious guy is trying to take up one and a half seats), or, you know, ranting a lot on my blog. (I’m not in my thirties yet, but I’m practicing.)

Man, I’m all hyped up now. I want to go kick that guy around some more. But instead I think I will go spend the refunded shipping money he so kindly gave me on stocking stuffers at a store where people are nice to me.

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Arabian Nights

I’ve always loved the story of Scheherazade, who told stories to save her own life. (I guess every writer loves this story.) So I was delighted when Michele agreed to go see The Arabian Nights at the Berkeley Rep with me last night.

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Part of my fascination with these stories is the florid way the characters speak, like in the Western fairy tale about the girl who dropped diamonds and roses from her lips when she spoke. Flowers and flattery.

– O King of Time, what is the purpose of life?

– To cultivate enthusiasm.

I don’t know why I was so surprised that the play conformed to this linguistic style. It was like watching Shakespeare, where the language is initially a barrier until you’re drawn into it by the actors and suddenly you understand it almost effortlessly. So…that was cool.

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Like the stories, the play also includes plenty of singing and dancing. I suppose this is naive of me, but I was impressed that they could find so many actors who could act, sing and dance. (I’m thinking of Star Trek TNG, which hired countless guest stars, almost none of whom could act at all. How are there so many great actors to be found for Berkeley Rep and almost none for a nationally aired TV show?)

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The play, like the stories, is set in a stylized version of Arabia — in the same way that Western fairy tales deal with an imaginary West full of spells and witches — but it deals with real issues too. It particularly addresses the sad and merry gender war, and how women fight it in a society where they have very little public power: through desire, through infidelity, through virtue, and through eloquence, cleverness and wit. By the end, Scheherazade has drawn a picture of a world where the balance of power is not so unequal as it first appeared.

And this is why the end of her own story has always felt so unsatisfying to me. By the end of her thousand and one nights, she’s won the heart of the king and she elects to stay with him as his wife. But why? I’ve never understood it. Before he married Scheherazade, the man has been systematically marrying, deflowering and murdering every virgin in the country until there are literally none left but the daughters of his most trusted advisor. He spends most of his nights with Scheherazade threatening to slit her throat. He is clearly a nutcase, and when he offers her freedom, she should take it. The women in her stories would.

Only once have I read a satisfying end to the tale, in a parody of it written by Craig Shaw Gardner (The Last Arabian Night). As I recall it, at the end, Scheherazade realizes that the handsome guard outside her bedchamber bears a striking resemblance to the king. After she has won the king’s heart and trust with her stories, she and the guard get together and bump him off, then live happily ever after with the guard posing as his master. As an added bonus, the guard is so grateful to Scheherazade for raising his status, he’s pretty much under her thumb for life and she’s in charge. Sounds right to me.

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Tickets to this might make a good Christmas present for someone on your list. It’s especially worth it because the theater is small and comfortable. Michele and I didn’t even have the most expensive seats, yet we found ourselves second-row center. Plus, way more legroom than A.C.T. Great play, great price; but hurry, because performances are selling out.

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Greatest

Kris: [Walks into living room.] Whatcha doin’?

Gene: Nothing. [Googles “kristen larson is the greatest.”]

Kris: [Grins soppily at him. Glances back at screen.] Wha — !?

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Fashion victim

In my recent fashion explorations, I’ve noticed something: you can wear almost anything if you are willing to spend way too much money on it. Designer labels have all kinds of awesomeness that I would totally wear, but if I spent that much money on one item of clothing I would have to stab myself. I have heard Christine describe this sensation very well: these are items where, if you lose them, you die a little inside because of how much money is sitting back on that subway seat.

But my trouble is this: I often find similar things for like $20 at places like Forever 21 or even less at thrift stores. To me, a sequined mini is a sequined mini, never mind how much it cost, but I think fashionable people often see differences invisible to me.

Take, for example, this $226 Vera Wang thing which I would look so great in I bet:

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So why can’t I buy this sequined mini from Forever 21 for $17.80, throw a gray sweater over it and call it fashion?

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Or, in this corner, an Alice + Olivia dress (can’t find it for sale, but similar dresses from this brand seem to hover around $400):

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Versus this dress, again from Forever 21, for $27.80:

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I know part of it is that I don’t like stuff until it’s been around and I’ve seen it on everyone else, because then I feel like I can wear it and still blend in, which is my most favorite thing to do. And last year’s fashion is today’s Forever 21 rack. So maybe the reason you’re not supposed to buy the cheap version is that it’s already out of date. Is that the only reason? Or am I missing something? Should I even be thinking about all this when I need to go find a good recipe for crescent rolls?

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Fun in Port Costa

We had Gene’s 30th birthday party at the Warehouse Cafe in Port Costa on Saturday. I had a great time, and learned some things about myself, just like a sitcom character would have. For example: even when not drunk, I will cheerfully talk to just about anyone about my new bra. I also learned I don’t actually have to drink to relax at a party, though it definitely helped that I knew a lot (though by no means all) of the people there. And I always assumed my inability to remember much of what happened the next day was alcohol-related, but now I suspect it’s just me having a poor memory, because a lot of it is still a blur.

Some fun stuff that I do remember:

– Early on, one of the non-party guests at the bar hit on Tracy. The same guy hit on me, but he waited until the bar was closing and I was literally the last woman there. He invited me to spend Thanksgiving with him, which I have to say is one of the nicest ways anyone has ever tried to pick up on me.

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Totally hit-on-able.

– After Tracy left, Nuala and I compared notes and found she had remarked on both the softness of Nuala’s sweater sleeve and of my shoulder skin. So Nuala and I spent a little while petting each other’s arms to compare. Sorry there’s no picture of that.

– Usually when drunk I seem to wind up trapping Ilk in a corner and talking to him for a long time about my love for Gene and stuff. This time, sober, I trapped Ilk in a corner and talked to him for a long time about the difference between Henry Miller and Arthur Miller.

– I didn’t recognize when the band covered Rhianna or “Chocolate Rain,” but I did recognize the Madonna song and “Sexy Back,” so make of that what you will.

– Since both Gene and I were too busy talking to people to drink much, we found ourselves sober at the end of the night and chose to make the long, chilly ride home rather than sleeping in the loud, possibly bug-infested hotel. (I want to stress that he was the one who suggested leaving. But I did jump all over the idea once he put it out there.) We then had to have a long argument with another patron, a biker about our age, who really wanted us to come stay in his guest room in Crockett rather than riding back to SF. He obviously hangs out there a lot and has seen too many bikers lurch off drunkenly to their bikes at the end of the night. I really really love anyone who is willing to fight that hard to keep a potential drunk driver off the road, but, being sober, we went home anyway, and it was really nice to wake up in our own home the next morning with the coffee maker right there.

– Finally, I learned that if you want a party chronicled right, hand your camera to Martina for half an hour. We have her to thank for many of these photos. Enjoy!

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We watch the band, and I have to close my eyes due to rockingness.

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At 12:01 this morning

The conversation we ought to have had:

Gene: Am I not sensitive, clever, well-mannered, considerate, passionate, charming, as kind as I’m handsome and heir to a throne?

Kris: You are everything maidens could wish for!

The conversation we actually had:

Kris: Happy birthday!

Gene: Thanks.

Kris: Man, I haven’t dated a guy in his thirties since I was in my teens.

Happy birthday, handsome.

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It starts with socks

On Christine’s recommendation, I bought and read The One Hundred: A Guide to the Pieces Every Stylish Woman Must Own. Christine posted a really helpful and entertaining distillation of this and a few other how-to-dress books here, and I’m not going to repeat that. This post is for women like me, who really despise the idea of someone else being an expert on our own closets.

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Normally, as I say, I would hate this kind of book, as I always hate it when people try to mess with my personal style, not to mention hating canons of any kind, but actually it’s quite helpful. And author Nina Garcia states at the beginning that you should be adapting this list to suit your personal style (as Christine did with her checklist), so I don’t feel dictated to when I read.

Also, a lot of the items are not what I’d expect. There are a few designers listed as must-haves, but she also lists tough-looking flat-heeled boots and a sturdy tote bag. And many of the items are menswear, which Michele and I have become interested in recently, so that’s exciting. I especially liked the suggestion that women who aren’t into perfume might try wearing men’s cologne. I like the idea of sharing cologne with Gene: why does she smell like her boyfriend? What have they been UP to?

My favorite thing about the book was that I realized you really can have a closet full of things that are both attractive and comfortable (I always thought of the two as separate species). But to get it, you have to take Christine’s advice. You have to go slow and not buy things that almost-fit just because they’re on sale. You have to shop with a plan instead of shopping with a magpie’s eye that will pick up and purchase anything sparkly or bright-colored regardless of how well it fits. (I added the last part. But trust me, it’s relevant.)

The incomparable Closet Shopper Tracy has been telling me this for years. It’s not that I can’t wear a fabulous bright-yellow-and-pink Wonder Woman t-shirt. It’s that I should find one that fits me better and is more comfortable. (I mean, I don’t know Tracy’s position on Wonder Woman shirts in general. But I think this is what she meant.)

Most of all, this book is helpful because it’s a book, not a person. When a person looks at my ballet flats and says pointedly, “Do you want to go shoe shopping?” then I feel attacked. If a book suggests a new pair of flats, that’s fine. After all, the book cannot possibly see or have an opinion on my current flats. Not being on the defensive lets me actually consider the suggestions being made and choose the ones I agree with.

I think Christine’s checklist is a great base for any woman to start with in revamping her wardrobe. I would just add: socks. I’ve only recently begun to address the sock question now that I have boots I like, and I’ve realized that cheap socks tend to lose their shape and color and softness quickly. For quality socks with exhaustive descriptions and free shipping on all orders, I suggest Sock Dreams, which Michele introduced me to. They also try not to sell socks made in China.

I’d also suggest, for those who are as daunted by the list as I was, not to think of this as a project that has to get done all at once. I think Tracy often tells her clients to start by finding only one perfect pair of jeans. (And maybe also the perfect bra? I forget.) I think the theory is that walking around in your perfect jeans will give you the confidence and energy to start on the rest of it.

I am going to be even less ambitious than that and say: start with your underwear drawer. Throw out everything that’s ill-fitting, uncomfortable or unattractive. Then look at the things you kept and figure out why you like them. Think about material, size, style, coverage and color. Use these guidelines when you shop for new stuff. This way, when you move on to buying the rest of the wardrobe, you’ll get a glimpse of your first brilliant success every time you undress in a changing room.

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Om Shanti Om

This weekend, Michele and I attended a Bollywood film at the Castro called Om Shanti Om, part of the South Asian Film Festival.

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I don’t know whether you’ve ever seen Bollywood, but for me, this is the pinnacle of filmmaking. The Bollywood films I’ve seen have everything I like — musical numbers, bright colors and glitter, romantical scenes, over-the-top comedic sidekicks — and nothing I hate — realistic violence, realistic drama, realistic anything. Om Shanti Om is no exception.

The climax of the first act in this 3.5 hour movie comes when the hot pencil-mustache-wearing villain locks his pregnant wife in an abandoned movie set and lights the whole thing on fire, leaving her to die. (Even I couldn’t be offended by this, because the melodrama was so high there was nothing to do but laugh.)

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Walking home, I mused, “You know, I just don’t really think a guy is hot unless he’s willing to set a pregnant woman on fire.” I paused, then confessed, “sometimes I wonder whether Gene would really do that.”

“Maybe if she messed with his phone,” Michele suggested.

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Props

And so the long, spotted career of George W. Bush is ending with a bang, like a leopard’s tail caught in a bear trap. In my neighborhood the parties went on into the wee hours: they blocked off the streets, showed Obama’s speech on an enormous screen, set off fireworks. I’m guessing they had all this ready in case Prop 8 failed and, even though it passed, they thought they might as well pull out the stops and the sparklers anyhow.

The following night, of course, the protests began. I saw my first actual protest that night, a few hundred people spontaneously marching down Castro Street, blocking the intersection and chanting slogans and generally pissing off bus drivers.

I saw the huge anti-war marches, of course, back when anyone remembered the war was going on, but those were pre-arranged affairs, held with the approval of the city. Nothing was being disrupted and no one was being inconvenienced, forced to listen against his will. (So that one pro-war guy living in San Francisco was safe from our rhetoric.) This, by contrast, was a genuine minority uprising, whose only real power, when the majority rules them, is to assemble in what numbers they have and stand in your path until you relent.

I mean, 200 people at Castro and 18th are standing in the path of other members of their own minority. But the emotion was real.

What struck me, as I listened to them shouting “Gay, straight, black, white: same struggle, same fight,” was the lack of retribution. This proposition was based on the straight community’s fear of the gay community, but honestly, there were about ten straight people out that night and hundreds of gay people and no one was bashing me in the head or looting my home. If the gay community hasn’t turned on us by NOW, do you really think they’re going to? Let’s give them some civil rights already. I’m pretty sure they won’t be using them to bring you down.

Later on in the week it got bigger, and spread to Dolores Park. Want your park back? Sorry, we feel that letting you use this park will threaten our own traditional gay parks. But how about a parking LOT? It’s the same size, you’ll never know the difference.

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This is not my protest photo.

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